Is It Bad to Mow Your Lawn in the Heat?

November 28, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Blog Overview:
Mowing your lawn in the heat can stress the grass, cause brown patches, and even damage your mower. It’s best to mow during cooler hours — early morning or late afternoon — for a cleaner, healthier result.

Blog Discussion Points:

Why heat stresses your lawn during mowing
Best mowing times for New Zealand’s summer
Ideal mowing height to prevent lawn burn
Safety tips for mowing in hot weather
How to recover a heat-stressed lawn

Is It Bad to Mow Your Lawn in the Heat?

Mowing your lawn in the middle of a hot day might seem efficient, but it can actually do more harm than good. Both your grass and your mower — not to mention you — can suffer under extreme temperatures.

Whether you’re trying to stay on top of your mowing schedule or just want your lawn to look tidy before guests arrive, it’s important to know how heat affects your grass. Here’s why you should think twice before you mow your lawn in the heat, and when it’s best to do it instead.

1. Heat Causes Grass Stress

Grass, like any plant, goes through stress when exposed to high temperatures. During the hottest hours of the day, the grass blades lose moisture quickly and struggle to recover from being cut.

Why this matters

When you mow your lawn in the heat, the freshly cut tips dry out faster and turn brown, leaving your lawn looking scorched. In extreme heat, this can even stunt new growth and weaken the root system.

Tip: Aim to mow early in the morning or late in the afternoon when temperatures are cooler and the grass has more moisture.

2. Mowing Short in Hot Weather Makes It Worse

Cutting your lawn too short during hot weather is one of the biggest mistakes homeowners make. Short grass exposes the soil and roots to direct sunlight, causing the lawn to dry out even faster.

The right mowing height

For most Kiwi lawns, the ideal mowing height is between 3–5 cm.
During summer, it’s better to stay on the higher side.
Taller grass provides natural shade for the soil, helping it retain moisture and stay green even under strong sunlight.

3. Heat Can Damage the Lawn’s Root System

When you mow your lawn in the heat, the combination of blade stress and soil warmth can damage roots. Hot soil temperatures slow down root growth and reduce the lawn’s ability to absorb water and nutrients.

How to protect your roots

Keep your lawn well-hydrated, but don’t overwater.
Deep watering a few times a week encourages roots to grow deeper, helping them withstand heat and dry spells.
A healthy root system is the key to surviving summer.

4. Freshly Cut Grass Loses Moisture Fast

Grass blades contain water that helps regulate the plant’s temperature. Mowing during a hot, dry day removes the upper layer that provides shade and moisture, leaving the lawn more vulnerable to dehydration.

Quick fix

If you must mow on a warm day, water the lawn early in the morning so the soil has time to absorb moisture before you cut. Avoid watering right after mowing — it can cause fungal problems.

5. Your Mower Works Harder in Hot Weather

The heat doesn’t just stress the grass — it can strain your mower, too. When grass is dry or brittle, the mower blades dull faster, and the engine may overheat if used under direct sunlight for long periods.

Maintenance tip

Keep your mower in good shape by cleaning the blades regularly and checking the oil before each use.
If possible, store your mower in a shaded or covered area to prevent heat damage.

6. Safety Risks for You

Mowing in the heat can be physically dangerous. The combination of direct sun, high humidity, and physical activity increases your risk of dehydration, dizziness, or even heat exhaustion.

Stay safe while mowing

Wear light, breathable clothing and a hat.
Drink water before, during, and after mowing.
Take breaks in the shade.
If you feel dizzy or faint, stop immediately and cool down.

Your safety always comes first — no perfect lawn is worth a health risk.

7. Heat Increases the Risk of Lawn Burn

Freshly cut grass is more sensitive to sunlight. When you mow your lawn in the heat, the exposed tips can “burn” under intense UV rays. The result? Brown streaks or patches that make the lawn look dry and uneven.

How to prevent lawn burn

Mow when the sun isn’t at its peak — before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m. If possible, adjust your mowing schedule to cooler days of the week. You can also mulch lightly to protect the soil and retain moisture.

8. Fertilising and Mowing in Heat Don’t Mix

If you’ve recently fertilised your lawn, avoid mowing in the heat. Fertiliser increases the salt content in the soil, and mowing during hot weather can amplify the stress on the grass, leading to burns or discolouration.

The best practice

Wait at least 24–48 hours after fertilising before mowing, and choose cooler conditions for both tasks. Water the lawn well after fertilising to help nutrients absorb evenly.

9. Mowing Schedule Tips for New Zealand Summers

New Zealand summers can vary — dry and hot in some regions, humid and warm in others. Adapting your mowing routine to local conditions keeps your lawn healthy year-round.

Recommended mowing habits

Mow every 7–10 days during summer, depending on growth rate.
Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade at once.
Alternate mowing patterns to prevent soil compaction and uneven growth.
Keep your mower blades sharp for cleaner cuts.

Consistency and timing are more important than frequency when maintaining a healthy summer lawn.

10. What to Do If Your Lawn Turns Brown After Mowing in Heat

If your lawn already looks brown or stressed after mowing, don’t panic. The grass is likely in shock and can recover with proper care.

Recovery steps

Water deeply and consistently for a week or two.
Avoid mowing again until the grass grows at least 5–6 cm tall.
Keep traffic off affected areas.
Apply a slow-release fertiliser once temperatures cool down.

With a little patience and maintenance, your lawn will bounce back and regain its vibrant green colour.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Can mowing in the heat kill the grass?

Not immediately, but repeated mowing during hot weather weakens the grass and can eventually lead to dead patches, especially if the soil is dry.

2. What time of day is best for mowing in summer?

Early morning (after the dew has dried) or late afternoon is best. Avoid the middle of the day when temperatures and UV levels peak.

3. Should I water before or after mowing in hot weather?

Watering before mowing is better, as it helps cool the soil and reduce stress. Wait until the blades are dry before cutting to avoid clumping.

4. How can I tell if my lawn is too stressed to mow?

If the grass feels brittle, looks dull, or doesn’t spring back when stepped on, it’s too dry and stressed to mow. Wait until it regains some moisture.

5. Is it okay to mow during a heatwave?

It’s best to postpone mowing during a heatwave. Focus on watering and shade protection until temperatures drop back to normal.

Final Thoughts

It’s tempting to keep your lawn neat no matter the weather, but mowing your lawn in the heat can cause lasting damage. Hot conditions stress your grass, dull your mower blades, and even pose safety risks. Timing your mowing sessions for cooler hours helps your lawn stay green, resilient, and healthy all summer long.

If you’d rather leave the hard work to the experts, Jim’s Mowing NZ has you covered. Our local lawn care professionals know the best mowing practices for New Zealand’s climate — keeping your lawn lush and healthy year-round.

Call Jim’s Mowing NZ at 0800 454 654 to book your mowing service today.

Is It Bad to Mow a Wet Lawn?

November 24, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Blog Overview:
Mowing a wet lawn can cause uneven cuts, spread disease, and damage both your grass and mower. It’s best to wait until your lawn is completely dry before mowing for a cleaner, healthier result.

Blog Discussion Points:

Why mowing wet grass can damage your lawn
How wet mowing affects mower performance and soil health
Tips for safe mowing in damp conditions
Ideal mowing times for New Zealand’s climate
Professional help for year-round lawn maintenance

Is It Bad to Mow a Wet Lawn?

Many Kiwis wonder whether it’s okay to mow right after a rainy day or when the morning dew hasn’t dried. While it might seem harmless, mowing a wet lawn can cause more damage than you think.

Whether you’re trying to stay on top of your mowing schedule or just want your lawn looking tidy, it’s important to understand how moisture affects grass health and mower performance. Let’s take a closer look at why mowing wet grass can do more harm than good — and what you should do instead.

10 Reasons Not To Mow a Wet Lawn

1. Wet Grass Doesn’t Cut Cleanly

When you mow a wet lawn, the grass blades tend to bend under the mower rather than standing upright for a clean cut. This causes uneven mowing and leaves behind long, uncut patches.

Why it matters

Torn or shredded grass blades are more likely to turn brown and become vulnerable to disease. The uneven finish also ruins the neat, striped look you want after mowing. Waiting until the lawn dries ensures a smoother cut and a healthier appearance.

2. Wet Clippings Can Smother the Lawn

Moist grass clippings clump together easily, forming thick mats on the surface of your lawn. These clumps block sunlight and airflow, suffocating the healthy grass beneath.

What to do

If you must mow when the grass is slightly damp, rake or collect the clippings afterward. Avoid leaving them in piles — they can trap moisture and create an ideal environment for fungal growth.

3. Mowing Wet Grass Can Spread Disease

Wet conditions are a breeding ground for lawn diseases such as brown patch, dollar spot, and rust. When you mow a wet lawn, your mower blades can transfer fungal spores across the yard, turning a small problem into a widespread one.

Preventing disease spread

To minimise risk, only mow when the lawn is dry and avoid watering right before mowing. If you notice discoloured or patchy areas, let the grass dry completely before cutting again.

4. Your Mower Can Get Damaged

Wet grass can wreak havoc on your mower. Moist clippings stick to the underside of the deck, clog the discharge chute, and strain the engine.

Maintenance concerns

After mowing a wet lawn, you might notice your mower bogging down or even stalling. The wet clippings can also lead to rust, dull blades, and long-term mechanical issues. Cleaning the mower immediately after use is essential — but it’s much easier to just wait for dry conditions.

5. It’s Dangerous for You, Too

Safety is another big reason not to mow a wet lawn. Slippery surfaces increase the risk of losing your footing, especially on sloped or uneven terrain. Electric mower users face additional hazards from water and electricity.

Stay safe

If the grass is slippery, postpone mowing until conditions improve. Your safety and equipment are worth far more than an afternoon of mowing.

6. It Can Compact the Soil

When soil is soaked with water, it becomes soft and easily compressed. Mowing or walking on it in this state can compact the soil, squeezing out air pockets and restricting root growth.

The result

Compacted soil makes it harder for water, air, and nutrients to reach the grass roots — leading to weak, patchy growth. Over time, this creates drainage problems and uneven lawn surfaces.

Tip: Wait at least a day or two after heavy rain before mowing to give the soil time to firm up.

7. Clumps of Grass Can Cause Uneven Growth

A freshly mown wet lawn often ends up with visible clumps of wet grass sitting on top. These clumps decompose slowly and can create “burn” spots due to trapped moisture and heat, resulting in discoloured patches.

How to fix it

If you accidentally mow when it’s damp, lightly rake the grass afterward to break up the clumps. You can also go over the area again with a bagging mower once the lawn dries out.

8. Mowing Wet Grass Makes Ruts and Tracks

If your mower leaves muddy tracks or dents in the ground, it’s a clear sign that the soil is too wet. These ruts not only ruin the appearance of your lawn but also make future mowing uneven and difficult.

The solution

Avoid mowing until your shoes stay mostly clean after walking across the lawn — that’s a good indicator the ground is dry enough for mowing. If you already have ruts, fill them with a light topsoil mix and reseed the area.

9. Timing Your Mowing in New Zealand’s Climate

New Zealand’s weather can be unpredictable — especially in spring and autumn when rain is frequent. To keep your lawn in top shape, it’s all about timing.

Best practice for Kiwi lawns

Mow in late morning or early afternoon once dew has evaporated.
During rainy weeks, wait for at least half a day of sunshine or wind before mowing.
If you use a mulching mower, be extra cautious — wet grass tends to clog and clump more.

By aligning your mowing routine with the local weather, you’ll save time and avoid unnecessary stress on your lawn.

10. When You Can Safely Mow Slightly Damp Grass

There are rare occasions when mowing slightly damp grass is acceptable — for instance, when light dew is present and the soil underneath is firm.

To do it safely:

Raise the mower height to reduce strain.
Use sharp blades for a clean cut.
Walk slowly to avoid slipping.
Clean your mower deck immediately after use.

These precautions can help if you’re short on time and can’t wait for perfect conditions — though dry mowing is still the best option.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Can mowing a wet lawn damage the grass permanently?

Usually, no — but repeated mowing in wet conditions can cause long-term problems like soil compaction, disease, and root damage. Occasional accidents are fine, but try to avoid it as a habit.

2. How long should I wait after rain before mowing?

Wait at least 24 to 48 hours after heavy rain. The soil should feel firm underfoot, not soft or muddy.

3. What should I do if I accidentally mowed my lawn while it was wet?

Rake up any clumps of grass, clean your mower, and avoid watering for a day or two. Allow the lawn to recover naturally before your next mow.

4. Why does wet grass clog the mower?

Moisture makes grass clippings sticky, causing them to cling to the mower deck and block airflow. This reduces cutting efficiency and can overheat the motor.

5. Is it okay to mow dew-covered grass in the morning?

Light morning dew is generally safe if the soil is dry and your mower has sharp blades. However, avoid mowing if the grass feels slick or heavy with moisture.

Final Thoughts

While it might be tempting to mow a wet lawn to stay on schedule, the risks far outweigh the benefits. Wet conditions make it harder to get a clean cut, can spread disease, damage your mower, and even put your safety at risk. Waiting for the lawn to dry not only keeps your grass healthier but also ensures a more professional finish.

If unpredictable weather or a busy schedule makes lawn care difficult, let the professionals handle it. Jim’s Mowing NZ offers expert mowing and lawn maintenance services across the country — rain or shine, we’ll make sure your lawn looks its best.

Call Jim’s Mowing NZ at 0800 454 654 to book your lawn care service today.

How to Shield Your Kiwi Lawn from Winter Chill and Summer Scorch

November 3, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

In New Zealand, we are lucky to have four distinct seasons, each offering its own beauty. However, for your lawn, the shift from a sizzling summer to a chilly, wet winter (and back again) creates a cycle of stress that requires strategic intervention.

Your lawn is primarily made up of two types of grasses:

Cool-Season Grasses (like Ryegrass, Fescue, and Browntop), which are the dominant species and thrive in temperatures between 15∘C and 24∘C.
Warm-Season Grasses (like Kikuyu and Couch), which are common in the hotter northern regions, growing best above 25∘C.

Both types require different strategies to survive the Kiwi climate extremes. Here is the Jim’s Mowing NZ guide to protecting your patch across the year.

In this blog you’ll learn:

Challenges of winter lawn care
How to protect your lawn from the winter chill
Challenges of summer lawn care
How to protect your lawn from the summer heat

The Winter Challenge – Cold, Dormancy, and Disease

Winter in New Zealand, particularly the chill and frost in the South Island and the persistent dampness in the North, presents a significant threat—less from the cold itself and more from the resulting conditions.

Dormancy and Fungal Attack

Most cool-season grasses slow their growth dramatically, but they generally do not go fully dormant unless the temperatures are consistently frosty. Warm-season grasses, conversely, often turn straw-brown and enter full dormancy below 10∘C.

The main winter dangers are:

Frost Damage – Walking on a frosted lawn shatters the ice-filled grass cells, causing instant browning and severe damage.
Fungal Diseases – Low light, high humidity, and prolonged moisture on the grass blades create the perfect breeding ground for diseases like Fusarium Patch and Red Thread (as we covered in our previous guide).
Compaction and Moss – Constant rain and wet soil lead to compaction and waterlogging, allowing moss to take over.

The Protection Plan for Winter

Homeowners must adopt a maintenance-and-prevention mindset during the cooler months:

Avoid Frost Traffic

This is the most important rule. Keep pets and foot traffic off the lawn until the frost has melted naturally. If you absolutely must melt it, a light hose-off in the morning can help.

Mow High and Sparingly

Raise the mower height and reduce mowing frequency to only every three to four weeks. Longer grass blades maximise the leaf surface area for catching sunlight, which is vital for survival. Collect the clippings to remove moisture and debris that breed fungus.

Improve Drainage and Aeration

Before the peak winter wet, aerate your lawn heavily in autumn. This encourages water to penetrate the soil rather than pooling on the surface, which suffocates roots and encourages moss.

Clear Leaves and Debris

Rake up fallen leaves, which smother the lawn, block vital light, and trap moisture, inviting fungal growth.

Apply Moss Control

Late winter/early spring is the ideal time to apply a moss killer to prepare the soil for healthy spring growth.

The Summer Challenge – Heat, Drought, and Water Restrictions

New Zealand summers—especially in the North Island and East Coast regions—can be punishingly hot and dry. The biggest threat to your lawn is dehydration and the resulting stress.

The Threat – Dehydration and Stress

Cool-season grasses (like Ryegrass and Fescue) are particularly vulnerable to dry conditions. When water is scarce, they enter a stress-induced dormancy, turning brown to conserve resources. This state makes them highly susceptible to pest infestation (like Grass Grub) and disease (like Dollar Spot).

The main summer dangers are:

Drought Stress – Lack of water causes the lawn to stop growing and brown off rapidly.
Mowing Too Low: – Short grass offers no shade to the soil, causing the ground to heat up, dry out faster, and stress the roots.
Pests – The hot, dry conditions are often when pests like Grass Grub and Porina Caterpillar do their worst damage, as the turf is too weak to fight back.

The Protection Plan for Summer

The focus shifts to water conservation and providing shade for the root zone:

Water Deeply in the Morning

As covered in the disease guide, water only in the early morning to prevent immediate evaporation and overnight fungus. Water for a long period (30-45 minutes per zone) once or twice a week, rather than daily, shallow sprinklings. Deep watering encourages the grass roots to grow deeper, making them more resilient to drought.

Raise the Mower Height

This is non-negotiable in summer. Set your blades to the highest setting. The longer blades shade the soil, keeping the roots cooler and reducing water evaporation by up to 30%.

Apply a Wetting Agent

Before summer hits, apply a quality soil wetting agent. This is crucial for Kiwi soils, especially where water repellent hydrophobic areas form. The wetting agent breaks the waxy barrier on the soil surface, allowing water to penetrate to the roots instead of running off.

Reduce Foot Traffic

During periods of extreme heat or drought, minimise walking on the lawn. Grass under stress is brittle, and traffic can break the crowns, leading to bare patches.

Feed with a Stress Reducer

Use a specialised summer fertiliser or an application of liquid seaweed. Seaweed helps strengthen the grass cells and root system, increasing the lawn’s tolerance to heat stress and drought.

Conclusion – A Year-Round Strategy is the Only Way

In New Zealand, the battle for a beautiful lawn is truly a year-round commitment. It’s not enough to simply mow in spring; you must proactively protect your turf against the seasonal extremes.

The homeowner’s role is to ensure the soil is healthy, well-draining, and nutrient-rich, preparing the grass to withstand the inevitable summer scorch and winter wet. By adjusting your watering, mowing, and feeding practices in anticipation of the weather, you remove the primary stress factors that allow diseases and pests to gain a foothold.

If you want the best lawn on the street, let the experts handle the heavy lifting. The Jim’s Mowing NZ team can assess your specific grass type and regional climate to develop a tailored, year-round maintenance plan that guarantees a lush, green, and resilient turf, regardless of the season.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Lawn Diseases and Climate Care

Diagnosis and Treatment

Q1: What is the most common sign of a fungal lawn disease in New Zealand?

The most common signs are patches of discoloured grass (yellow, brown, or straw-coloured) and the presence of fine, thread-like structures on the grass blades in the early morning dew. The appearance of small, reddish-pink threads (Red Thread) or small, bleached spots (Dollar Spot) are specific indicators.

Q2: Is it better to use a fungicide or try cultural practices first?

It is always recommended to try cultural practices first. Correcting your mowing, watering, and fertilisation routines can often eliminate the conditions the fungus needs to survive. Fungicides should be considered a last resort for severe or persistent infections.

Q3: What is the one crucial thing I must change about my watering to prevent disease?

Water only in the early morning (before 10 am). This ensures the grass blades have the entire day to dry out completely. Leaving foliage wet overnight creates the perfect environment for fungal spores to germinate and spread.

Q4: If I have a lawn disease, should I collect my grass clippings?

Yes. If you have an active fungal infection, you should use a catcher and remove the clippings. This helps to physically remove the fungal spores from the lawn, preventing them from being spread by the mower across the healthy turf.

Climate Protection

Q5: Do most New Zealand lawns go dormant in winter?

Cool-season grasses (Ryegrass, Fescue, etc.), which are dominant in NZ, slow down significantly but usually remain active and green in milder regions. Warm-season grasses (Kikuyu, Couch) will turn brown and go fully dormant once temperatures consistently drop below about 10∘C.

Q6: How do I protect my lawn from summer heat and drought?

The best defence is mowing high and watering deep and infrequently.

Mow High – Set your mower to the highest setting to allow longer blades to shade the soil and keep roots cool.
Water Deeply – Water for long periods (e.g., 30-45 minutes) once or twice a week to encourage deep root growth, making the grass more drought-tolerant.

Q7: Why is walking on a frosty lawn a problem?

Walking on a frosted lawn is disastrous because the frozen water inside the grass cells shatters under pressure. This crushes the grass blades and permanently damages the plant tissue, resulting in visible brown footprints or patches that won’t recover until the next growing season.

Q8: Should I fertilise my lawn in summer?

It is best to apply your main feeds in spring and autumn. Applying a high-nitrogen fertiliser during peak summer heat can stress the grass. If your lawn is struggling in summer, opt for a light application of liquid seaweed or a stress-relieving tonic to boost root health instead.

How to Diagnose, Treat, and Prevent Lawn Diseases for a Thriving Kiwi Turf

October 27, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Your lawn is more than just grass—it’s the backbone of your home’s curb appeal, the soft playground for your kids, and the foundation of your outdoor living space. It’s a point of pride for many New Zealanders, and seeing it turn patchy, brown, or speckled with strange colours can be genuinely frustrating.

The culprit is often not a pest, but a disease.

Lawn diseases are typically caused by fungi, and they can spread rapidly under the right (or rather, wrong) conditions. They thrive on stressed grass and are particularly active during periods of high humidity, excessive moisture, or sudden temperature changes. They are the silent assassins of the turf world.

As your local lawn care experts at Jim’s Mowing NZ, we know exactly what fungal foes Kiwi lawns face. This comprehensive guide will walk you through how to spot the signs, treat the infection, and, most importantly,prevent lawn diseases to keep your turf robust, healthy, and beautifully green all year round.

1. Understanding the Enemy—The Big Three Lawn Diseases in NZ

Diagnosing the problem is the first and most critical step. Fungal diseases often look similar, but their preferred conditions and appearance can help you tell them apart.

1. Red Thread (or Pink Patch)

This is perhaps the most common fungal disease in New Zealand and is often a sign of a struggling, nitrogen-deficient lawn.

When It Strikes – Most prevalent in cool, wet weather, typically in late autumn, spring, or during wet summers.
The Signs – You will see irregular patches of light-tan or straw-coloured grass, usually 7 to 25cm in diameter. Look closely at the tips of the grass blades, especially when they are wet. You might spot fine, reddish-pink thread-like growths (called stromata) extending from the tips of the leaves.
The Damage – Red Thread rarely kills the grass roots entirely, but it certainly ruins the uniform look of your lawn.

2. Dollar Spot

As the name suggests, this disease leaves distinct, small spots, which often cluster together to form larger, more widespread damage.

When It Strikes – Favourable conditions are warm days, cool nights, and high humidity, which means it’s most active in late spring, summer, and autumn. It especially targets stressed lawns suffering from low fertility or drought.
The Signs – Look for small, circular, sunken patches of discoloured grass, initially about the size of a 50-cent coin (or a silver dollar). The grass blades in the spot will appear bleached and may have a reddish-brown margin. In the early morning dew, you might see fine, white, cobweb-like threads (mycelium) covering the patches.
The Damage – If left untreated, the spots will merge, creating large, irregular patches of dead grass.

3. Fusarium Patch (or Snow Mould)

This disease can be one of the most destructive, particularly in areas of the lawn that remain damp and sheltered.

When It Strikes – It is a cool-weather disease, thriving in the cool, moist, and overcast conditions of late autumn, winter, and early spring. It’s often worse when the grass is lush due to a high nitrogen application in winter.
The Signs – Initial symptoms are small, yellowish, water-soaked patches that quickly turn a pulpy, reddish-brown. The patches can spread rapidly, sometimes reaching 30cm or more, and may look slimy or greasy. In dewy conditions, you might see a white or pinkish fungal growth around the margin of the patch.
The Damage – Fusarium patch can kill the grass blades down to the crown, resulting in significant bare patches that require reseeding.

2. The Golden Rule of Treatment—Cultural Practices First

Chemical fungicides can be effective, but they are expensive, targeted, and should always be a last resort. The best way to beat a fungal disease is to eliminate the environmental factors that allowed it to take hold. This is often called a “cultural control.”

1. Master Your Watering Schedule

Fungus needs moisture on the grass blade to germinate and spread.

The Change

Never water your lawn in the late afternoon or evening. This allows the grass blades to stay wet all night, creating an ideal breeding ground for fungus.

The Fix

Water only in the early morning (before 10 am). This allows the water to soak in while the grass blades have the entire day to dry out completely in the sun.

The Method

Water deeply and infrequently. Instead of light watering every day, give the lawn a deep soak once or twice a week.

2. Sharpen Your Mowing Routine

A stressed lawn is a susceptible lawn. Poor mowing habits are a leading cause of stress.

The Change

When disease is active, raise your mower height. Cutting the grass too short stresses the plant and leaves less leaf surface for photosynthesis.

The Fix

Mow frequently but never remove more than a third of the grass blade length at a time.

The Clean-Up

If you have active fungus, collect your clippings instead of mulching. This removes the fungal spores and prevents them from spreading across the rest of your lawn, especially when you mow a healthy section next. Make sure to wash your mower blades with a mild bleach solution after cutting an infected area.

3. Improve Airflow and Drainage

Fungi thrive in still, damp conditions. You need to get air moving and water draining.

The Change – Prune back any low-hanging branches from trees or shrubs that are creating excessive shade and reducing air circulation over the lawn.
The Fix – Aerate your lawn. Use a garden fork, or hire an aerator, to punch holes into the soil, especially in compacted or affected areas. This improves drainage and gets oxygen to the roots.
Thatch Management – Remove excessive thatch (the layer of dead grass and organic material sitting on the soil). Dethatching or scarifying with a sturdy rake or machine will remove this moisture-holding layer and greatly reduce the conditions favoured by diseases like Dollar Spot and Fusarium Patch.

4. Adjust Fertilisation

Feeding your lawn correctly is your number one defence.

Red Thread – This is almost always a sign of nitrogen deficiency. A quick application of a nitrogen-rich fertiliser will often cause the grass to rapidly grow out of the infection.
Fusarium Patch – Conversely, avoid high-nitrogen feeds in late autumn or winter, as this encourages the lush, soft growth that this fungus loves. Switch to a lower-nitrogen, autumn/winter specific fertiliser.

3. When to Use Chemical Control (Fungicides)

If cultural controls aren’t working and the disease is severe or spreading aggressively, you may need to apply a fungicide.

Application – Look for a broad-spectrum lawn fungicide approved for use in New Zealand. Common products target a range of fungal issues like Red Thread, Dollar Spot, and Brown Patch.
Coverage – Follow the instructions precisely. You must apply to the entire affected area and usually to a wide border of the healthy lawn surrounding it to prevent further spread.
Timing – Fungicides are generally most effective when applied at the very first sign of an outbreak or as a preventative measure if your lawn is historically prone to a specific disease.

If you are unsure about using chemicals, or need a large area treated, the Jim’s Mowing team is equipped with the knowledge and certified commercial products to apply a professional, targeted treatment that is safe and effective.

Conclusion

A successful defence against lawn diseases in New Zealand starts with vigilance and good lawn care habits. By understanding the common fungal foes like Red Thread, Dollar Spot, and Fusarium Patch, you empower yourself to react quickly.

Remember, a healthy lawn is a resilient lawn. Your best defence is an offensive strategy built around excellent cultural practices: correct morning watering, disciplined mowing, aeration, dethatching, and a balanced feeding schedule. These simple steps create an environment where fungal spores cannot thrive, letting your turf grow thick, green, and vibrant.

If you are struggling with a persistent lawn disease or simply need expert advice and a professional treatment plan to restore your beautiful lawn, the local specialists at Jim’s Mowing NZ are here to help. We’re ready to put the health and beauty back into your piece of the Kiwi landscape!

Happy mowing!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Diagnosing Lawn Diseases

Q1: My lawn has brown patches. How do I know if it’s a fungus or just a dry spot?

A: A fungal disease often has a distinct pattern and appearance. Look closely at the grass blades:

Fungus: You might see a ring of active discolouration (yellow/orange/pink), or small lesions/spots on the individual blades. Active diseases like Red Thread or Dollar Spot are usually visible early in the morning when dew is present.
Drought/Dry Spot: The grass will be uniformly brown and brittle, and there won’t be distinct rings or lesions. The soil underneath will be dry and hard.

Q2: What is the most common lawn disease in New Zealand?

A: The most commonly observed fungal diseases in New Zealand are Red Thread and Dollar Spot. They thrive in moist, cool, or humid conditions, especially when the grass is under-nourished or stressed.

Q3: When is the best time of year to look for active lawn diseases?

A: Fungal diseases are most active during periods of high humidity and mild temperatures.

Spring/Autumn: Ideal for diseases like Red Thread and Dollar Spot, as days are mild and nights can be cool and damp.
Summer: High heat combined with wet periods (e.g., thunderstorms or heavy irrigation) can trigger diseases like Brown Patch.

Treatment and Cultural Control

Q4: Should I use a catcher and remove clippings if I have a disease?

A: Yes, absolutely. If you have an active fungal disease, always use your catcher. Leaving clippings on the lawn acts like a blanket, trapping moisture and heat (perfect for fungus), and allows the fungal spores to be spread by the mower blades across healthy sections of the lawn.

Q5: How should I change my watering routine to prevent fungal diseases?

A: The key is to eliminate extended periods of leaf wetness:

Water Only in the Morning: Water deeply and thoroughly between 6:00 AM and 10:00 AM. This allows the sun and air circulation to completely dry the grass blades before evening.
Never Water at Night: Watering in the evening leaves the foliage wet all night, creating an ideal 8-12 hour window for fungal spores to germinate.

Q6: Does a diseased lawn need fertilising?

A: It depends on the disease.

Red Thread is often triggered by low nitrogen. A quick-acting, balanced fertiliser can help the grass outgrow the disease.
For aggressive diseases like Brown Patch, over-fertilising (especially with high nitrogen) can make the problem worse. Focus on balanced nutrients and soil health.

Long-Term Prevention

Q7: My lawn gets very spongy. Is this related to disease?

A: A spongy lawn usually indicates an excessive build-up of thatch (a layer of dead and living organic matter between the grass and soil). Thatch holds a lot of moisture, which is an incubator for fungal diseases. You should dethatch (scarify) or verti-mow the lawn, typically in late spring or early autumn.

Q8: What is aeration and how does it help prevent disease?

A: Aeration (poking holes in the soil) is a vital practice. It:

Relieves soil compaction, allowing roots to grow deeper and stronger.
Improves water and air penetration, reducing surface water pooling.
Encourages microbes that compete with disease-causing fungi. Aerating once or twice a year is a powerful preventative measure.

Q9: When should I consider using a fungicide?

A: Fungicides should be a last resort. Consider using one only if:

You have identified the disease and confirmed it is severe.
You have already adjusted all cultural practices (mowing, watering, fertilising) for at least two weeks with no improvement.
The disease is threatening the entire lawn or a high-value area. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely.

How to Do Basil Companion Planting

October 13, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Summary:

Basil companion planting is an effective, natural technique to achieve lusher, more flavorful harvests and reduce pests by turning your garden into a cooperative ecosystem. This guide details basil’s best vegetable and floral allies, which enhance growth, deter whiteflies and caterpillars, and includes the non-negotiable rivals you must always avoid.

What is Companion Planting and Why Does Basil Love It?
Basil’s Best Mates – The Essential Vegetable Companions
Floral Allies: Basil’s Beneficial Flower and Herb Companions
The Non-Negotiables – What to AVOID Planting with Basil
Getting Started with Basil Companion Planting Your Garden

We all love the sweet, aromatic, peppery hit of fresh basil. It’s the essential ingredient for a perfect pesto, a classic caprese salad, or simply scattered over a homemade pizza. As a cornerstone of the Kiwi summer garden, getting the most out of your basil crop is a top priority.

But what if we told you the key to lusher, more flavourful basil, fewer pesky bugs, and healthier neighbouring plants, isn’t just about good soil and sunshine? It’s about who you plant your basil next to.

Welcome to the world of companion planting, a natural, age-old gardening technique that turns your garden into a powerful, cooperative ecosystem. And when it comes to basil, this technique is nothing short of magic.

What is Companion Planting and Why Does Basil Love It?

Companion planting is the practice of strategically placing different species of plants close to each other to help them thrive. It’s gardening with a team approach.

For basil, companion planting offers four primary, game-changing benefits:

Natural Pest Control: Basil’s powerful aroma, particularly with its high essential oil content, acts as a natural insect repellent. When planted strategically, it can confuse and deter common New Zealand garden villains like whitefly, aphids, and the dreaded tomato hornworm (or the caterpillars of the endemic tomato fruitworm).
Flavour Improvement: Legend has it that planting certain herbs together can enhance the flavour and essential oil production of nearby plants.
Improved Growth and Health: Some companions improve the soil or provide necessary shade for basil on scorching summer days.
Weed Suppression & Mulching: Low-growing plants can act as a living mulch, suppressing weeds and keeping the soil cool and moist—just the way basil likes it.

Basil’s Best Mates – The Essential Vegetable Companions

Basil is generally a good team player, but it has a few famous pairings that every Kiwi gardener should know.

1. Basil and Tomatoes

This is the most famous and arguably the most important basil companion pairing. It’s a match made in gardening heaven (and in the kitchen!).

How They Help Each Other: Basil’s strong scent is particularly effective at repelling whiteflies and the caterpillars of the tomato fruitworm – two pests that love to feast on tomato plants. Studies also suggest that basil can improve the flavour and vigour of the tomatoes themselves. Both plants love the same conditions: hot sun, rich soil, and consistent watering, making them perfect neighbours.
Jim’s Mowing Tip: For maximum pest control, many seasoned gardeners recommend planting at least one basil plant for every tomato plant, or scattering small groups of basil throughout your tomato rows.

2. Basil and Capsicum/Peppers

Just like tomatoes, capsicums and chillies are from the same plant family and have identical growing needs to basil.

How They Help Each Other: Basil helps to deter the same pests that target peppers. By sharing a bed, you simplify your watering and feeding regime, as both plants thrive under the same hot, consistent conditions. The bushier growth of basil can also help to shelter the soil around the capsicum roots.

3. Basil and Cabbages/Broccoli

Brassicas (like cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower) are constantly under attack from the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae) whose caterpillars can skeletonise leaves overnight.

How They Help Each Other: Planting basil nearby helps to confuse and deter the adult White Butterfly from laying its eggs on your brassicas. This aromatic interference is a wonderful, chemical-free way to protect your spring and summer crops.

4. Basil and Lettuce

Lettuce is a short-season crop that is a great fit for the base of your taller basil plants.

How They Help Each Other: Lettuce is an ideal “living mulch.” Planted densely around the base of your basil, it keeps the soil cool and moist (which basil loves) and suppresses weeds. Because lettuce has shallow roots, it won’t compete with the deeper root system of your basil plant.

5. Basil and Carrots/Radishes

Root vegetables grow below the soil line, which means they don’t compete with basil for sunlight or above-ground space.

How They Help Each Other: Basil’s foliage provides a good canopy of shade, which is particularly beneficial for keeping the soil cool for carrots and radishes during the peak of the New Zealand summer. This close companionship also helps with general garden health and deterring pests like the carrot rust fly.

Floral Allies: Basil’s Beneficial Flower and Herb Companions

Companion planting isn’t just about vegetables—some flowers and herbs are your basil’s secret weapons against garden bugs and allies for general health.

The Pest-Fighter Trio

Marigolds (Tagetes spp.)

These sunny flowers are a powerhouse. They repel harmful soil nematodes (microscopic worms) that can damage plant roots and also deter various flying insects with their strong scent. Plant these annuals widely; they thrive in the same sunny spots as basil.

Nasturtium

This is a classic “trap crop.” Aphids and caterpillars simply cannot resist them. By planting Nasturtiums nearby, you attract the pests away from your precious basil and other vegetables. You can sacrifice the Nasturtium to save your basil. Bonus: the leaves and flowers make a peppery, edible addition to your salads!

Chives and Garlic

These pungent alliums are another excellent choice. Their strong, sulphuric scent helps to repel common pests like aphids, and they are also thought to help ward off fungal diseases.

The Pollinator Pals

Borage

Crowned with beautiful, edible blue, star-like flowers, Borage is a magnet for essential pollinators, especially bees. More importantly, it attracts beneficial insects like ladybirds and predatory wasps (which eat aphids). Its deep roots also help to draw up trace minerals, improving the health of nearby basil.

Oregano and Parsley

These two herbs share similar growing requirements (full sun, good drainage) and are great at attracting beneficial insects and pollinators to the area, boosting the overall health of your garden ecosystem.

The Non-Negotiables – What to AVOID Planting with Basil

Not all plants are a good fit. Some will stunt your basil’s growth or compete for resources. Keep basil well away from the following:

Fennel

A notorious garden tyrant. Fennel produces a chemical that inhibits the growth of many other plants, including basil. Give it its own space!

Rue

The herb Rue is an enemy of basil. Planting them together is said to hinder the growth and overall health of both plants.

Cucumbers

While some gardeners report success, others find that cucumbers and basil compete too much for water and nutrients, sometimes leading to poor basil growth. Given the choice, it’s generally better to pair basil with the less thirsty tomato or capsicum.

Getting Started with Basil Companion Planting Your Garden

Basil is a warm-weather plant, best sown in New Zealand from late Spring through to early Autumn (typically October through to March) when the risk of frost is gone.

Plan Your Layout – When designing your vege patch for the summer, mark out where your tomatoes, capsicums, and cabbages will go. Plant your basil seedlings or seeds 30-40cm apart, interspersing them among your companion crops rather than just grouping them all at the end of the bed.
Interplant, Don’t Just Group – For maximum pest repellent effect, mix your basil within the rows of your vulnerable plants. A “pepper-basil-pepper” pattern is more effective than “pepper-pepper-pepper-basil.”
Watering is Key – Basil needs consistent moisture, especially during dry spells. Ensure your companion plants (like tomatoes) which also require consistent water are planted with your basil to simplify your watering routine. Use a good quality compost and a layer of organic mulch to keep water in the soil.
Regular Pruning – Pinch out your basil tips regularly to encourage bushier growth, which provides more protective aroma and a bigger harvest for your kitchen.

In Conclusion

A healthier garden, the Jim’s Mowing way, is about smart, natural solutions. Companion planting with basil is a simple, organic, and incredibly rewarding method that reduces your reliance on chemical controls. It works by bringing your garden into a natural, harmonious balance.

If you’re unsure about soil quality, need a hand with lawn care to give your basil bed the star treatment it deserves, or simply want to chat about your gardening plans, the local experts at Jim’s Mowing NZ are here to help. We’re passionate about healthy, beautiful Kiwi gardens—and that starts with a thriving vege patch!

Happy planting, and enjoy that delicious basil!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Why is my basil going to seed (flowering) so quickly?

A: This is called “bolting,” and it’s your basil plant’s natural reaction to stress, usually heat or lack of water. Once it flowers, the leaves can turn bitter.

The Fix: Water consistently, especially during hot spells. Most importantly, regularly pinch or cut off the growing tips and any flower spikes as soon as they appear. This forces the plant to focus its energy on producing more delicious leaves instead of seeds.

Q: What is the best type of basil to grow in a New Zealand summer?

A: The most popular and reliable variety is ‘Sweet Basil’ or ‘Genovese Basil’. It has large, glossy leaves perfect for pesto and Italian cooking.

If you’ve had issues with common diseases, look for a new, disease-resistant variety like ‘Prospera’ or ‘Everleaf Emerald Towers’.
For Asian cuisine, try ‘Thai Basil’, which has a distinct, anise-like (licorice) flavour and holds up well to high heat cooking.

Q: My basil leaves have small holes. What’s eating them?

A: Small holes are usually caused by a few culprits:

Caterpillars: Often the small green ones. Handpick them off or use a targeted organic insect spray.
Slugs and Snails: Check the leaves, especially near the soil, for telltale silvery trails. A shallow dish of beer sunk into the soil or organic pellets can help.
Flea Beetles: Tiny, jumping beetles that leave “shot-hole” damage.

Q: Can I grow basil in a pot or indoors?

A: Absolutely! Basil does very well in pots.

Pot Size: Use a decent-sized pot (at least 20cm diameter) with good drainage.
Indoors: Place the pot on your sunniest windowsill. If it starts to look “leggy” (stretching tall and thin), it needs more light.

Q: Can I still use the basil leaves if the plant has flowered?

A: Yes, the leaves are still edible, but their flavour will be less sweet and more pungent or slightly bitter. The younger leaves near the bottom will generally taste better than the older ones near the flower spike. You can also use the flowers as an edible garnish in salads!

How to Plant a Raised Herb Garden for Beginners

October 7, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Herbs are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow at home. For Kiwi gardeners, learning how to plant a raised herb garden is a practical and attractive way to enjoy fresh flavours year-round. This beginner’s guide will walk you through everything step by step.

In This Blog You’ll Learn:

Why raised herb gardens are ideal for beginners
Choosing the best location and materials
The most popular herbs to grow in New Zealand
Step-by-step planting and maintenance tips
Common mistakes to avoid
How to keep your raised herb garden thriving year-round

Why Choose a Raised Herb Garden?

Raised garden beds are especially beginner-friendly because they:

Offer better soil control – You can fill the bed with high-quality soil and compost, perfect for herbs.
Reduce weeds – A raised height limits invasive weeds from creeping in.
Improve drainage – Essential for herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano that dislike soggy roots.
Make gardening easier – Less bending and kneeling, which is helpful for comfort and accessibility.
Look great – Raised beds can double as a decorative feature in your backyard or patio.

For beginners, this setup provides structure and reduces the risk of common gardening mistakes.

Choosing the Right Location and Materials

Location

Pick a spot that receives at least 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. Most culinary herbs love full sun, though a little afternoon shade can benefit delicate varieties like parsley and coriander during hot New Zealand summers.

Size

A raised herb garden doesn’t need to be large. A 1–2 metre bed is enough to grow a variety of herbs while remaining easy to maintain.

Materials

You can use:

Wood – Treated pine, cedar, or macrocarpa are popular. Line treated wood with plastic to prevent leaching.
Bricks or concrete blocks – Durable and weather-resistant.
Metal planters – Stylish and long-lasting.

Whichever material you choose, ensure the bed is at least 30–40 cm deep to allow roots to develop.

Best Herbs for New Zealand Beginners

Start with hardy, low-maintenance herbs that suit New Zealand’s climate. Good options include:

Basil – Loves warm weather, perfect for summer salads.
Parsley – A reliable year-round favourite.
Coriander – Fast-growing but prefers cooler conditions.
Mint – Easy but invasive—plant in a separate container within your bed.
Rosemary – Drought-tolerant and perfect for roasts.
Thyme – Hardy and great for flavouring stews.
Chives – Low-maintenance and great for garnishes.

Mix perennial herbs (like rosemary and thyme) with annuals (like basil and coriander) for variety.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Prepare the Bed
- Fill your raised bed with a mix of garden soil, compost, and organic matter.
- Herbs prefer well-drained soil, so add sand or fine gravel if needed.
Plan Your Layout
- Place taller herbs (rosemary, basil) at the back or centre.
- Plant creeping herbs (thyme, oregano) along the edges to spill over attractively.
- Keep mint in a pot sunk into the bed to prevent spreading.
Plant Your Herbs
- Dig holes slightly larger than the root ball.
- Place plants in and gently firm the soil around them.
- Water well after planting to help roots settle.
Mulch and Label
- Add a thin layer of mulch (straw, bark chips, or pea straw) to conserve moisture.
- Label each plant so you can easily identify them as they grow.

Caring for Your Raised Herb Garden

Watering – Herbs prefer deep, less frequent watering. Aim for 2–3 times a week in summer, depending on rainfall.
Pruning – Regularly trim herbs to encourage bushy growth. Don’t be shy—harvesting is pruning!
Feeding – Apply liquid fertiliser or seaweed tonic every 3–4 weeks for lush, healthy plants.
Pest control – Watch for aphids and caterpillars. Companion planting with marigolds or nasturtiums can help keep pests away naturally.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overwatering – Most herbs hate soggy soil. Ensure your raised bed drains well.
Overcrowding – Give each plant enough space—cramped herbs compete for light and nutrients.
Neglecting mint control – Mint will take over if not contained. Always grow it separately.
Planting in full shade – Herbs won’t thrive without sunlight.

Keeping Your Raised Herb Garden Thriving Year-Round

Jim's NZ team

In New Zealand, herbs can be grown almost year-round with the right care. Protect tender herbs like basil from frost in winter by covering with cloches or moving pots indoors. Hardy perennials such as rosemary and thyme will continue producing through cooler months, giving you fresh flavour all year.

If you’d like extra support with seasonal garden care, soil preparation, or herb maintenance, professional gardening services can make it easier to keep your raised garden thriving.

Conclusion

A raised herb garden is the perfect beginner project—easy to manage, rewarding, and great for Kiwi backyards. With the right setup and care, you’ll have fresh herbs at your fingertips for cooking and health. For help with garden design and maintenance, call Jim’s Mowing NZ at 0800 454 654.

How to Get Rid of Mint in Garden Without Killing Other Plants

September 30, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Mint is a versatile herb, but if left unchecked, it can quickly overrun your garden. Many Kiwis find themselves wondering how to get rid of mint in garden beds without harming nearby plants. With the right strategies, you can reclaim your garden space while keeping other greenery safe.

Discussion Points:

Why mint spreads so aggressively
The risks of letting mint grow unchecked
Manual and natural removal methods
Safe containment strategies to prevent regrowth
Common mistakes to avoid
When to call in professional help

Why Mint Becomes a Problem

Mint might look harmless at first, but beneath the surface it’s a completely different story. Mint spreads through underground rhizomes—horizontal stems that travel just below the soil surface. These rhizomes can extend well beyond where you originally planted the herb, producing new shoots wherever they settle.

Over time, these shoots form dense mats of roots that smother the soil, making it difficult for other plants to grow. What starts as a small patch of mint can quickly creep into borders, vegetable patches, and even lawns, leaving little room for anything else.

Because rhizomes are tough and flexible, they often weave through root systems of neighbouring plants. This makes it hard to remove mint completely without disturbing the rest of your garden. Left unchecked, mint doesn’t just coexist—it dominates, and that’s when it disrupts your garden’s natural balance.

Risks of Uncontrolled Mint Growth

Crowding out other plants: Mint has an aggressive growth habit, competing fiercely for soil nutrients, water, and sunlight. Tender vegetables and flowers often lose out.
Invasive root systems: The underground rhizomes travel far beyond the original planting spot, sometimes popping up metres away.
Difficult eradication: Even the tiniest piece of rhizome left in the soil can regenerate into a new plant. This means one half-hearted removal attempt won’t work.

While mint adds amazing flavour to teas, desserts, and cocktails, in the garden it’s more like a weed if not controlled. It’s best to contain it from the start or act quickly before it spreads.

Manual and Natural Removal Methods

1. Uprooting by Hand

Digging up mint is the most direct method, but it requires patience.

Use a garden fork or spade to carefully loosen the soil. Avoid pulling mint stems by hand, as they’ll snap easily and leave roots behind.
Remove as much of the rhizome system as possible, following roots laterally through the soil.
Expect to repeat this process several times, as missed fragments can sprout again.

Tip: It’s easiest to do this after rain or watering, when the soil is moist and roots come up more cleanly.

2. Smothering the Roots

If digging isn’t practical, smothering works well in larger infested areas.

Lay down several layers of cardboard or newspaper, or use black plastic sheeting to block sunlight.
Weigh the covering down with soil, mulch, or stones.
Leave it in place for several weeks to months, checking occasionally for any mint shoots trying to break through.

This method deprives mint of light and oxygen, weakening the rhizomes until they can no longer regenerate. Once removed, you can replant the area with less aggressive species.

3. Frequent Cutting

Mint relies heavily on its leaves for energy through photosynthesis. By cutting stems down repeatedly, you deprive the plant of energy, gradually starving it.

Use sharp shears to cut plants back to ground level.
Collect and dispose of the clippings rather than composting them—some pieces may still root if conditions are right.
Combine cutting with root removal for the most effective results.

This method works best when you’re trying to gradually weaken mint over a growing season.

Safe Containment Strategies

If you enjoy the fresh taste of mint in teas, desserts, or cooking, you don’t have to banish it from your garden completely. The key is containment. Here are several safe and effective ways to grow mint without letting it take over:

1. Plant in Pots or Containers

One of the easiest methods is to grow mint in a pot.

Choose a deep container (at least 30–40 cm) to give the roots room but prevent them from spreading outward.
You can sink the pot into your garden bed so the top rim sits just above soil level. This keeps the mint accessible while blocking rhizomes from escaping underground.
For extra security, line the pot with mesh or landscape fabric before filling it with soil.

2. Raised Garden Beds

Growing mint in a raised bed keeps it separate from the rest of your plants.

Dedicate one raised bed to herbs like mint, lemon balm, and oregano that share similar spreading tendencies.
Make sure the raised bed has a solid base or weed matting underneath to stop roots from tunnelling into the soil below.
Position the bed in a sunny corner where mint can thrive without competing with vegetables or flowers.

3. Root Barriers

If you prefer mint directly in the ground, root barriers can help.

Use physical barriers such as heavy-duty plastic edging, metal sheets, or even old buckets with the bottoms removed.
Bury the barrier at least 30–40 cm deep, as rhizomes can travel surprisingly far below the soil surface.
Allow the barrier to extend several centimetres above the ground to prevent roots from creeping over the top.

4. Regular Maintenance

Even with containment, mint requires ongoing monitoring. Check the edges of pots, beds, or barriers every few weeks for escaping shoots and cut them back promptly. A little routine attention will keep mint manageable while still providing you with plenty of fresh sprigs.

By using these containment strategies, you can enjoy mint’s benefits in the kitchen and garden without worrying about it invading every corner of your property.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

When dealing with mint, it’s easy to make mistakes that end up worsening the problem. Here are the pitfalls to steer clear of:

Using harsh chemicals – Herbicides might seem like a quick fix, but they often harm neighbouring plants, contaminate soil, and disrupt the microbial balance. Mint is so resilient that chemical sprays rarely eliminate it completely.
Pulling only the stems – Tugging mint stems by hand may remove the top growth but leaves rhizomes intact. Those underground runners will quickly send up new shoots, undoing your hard work.
Planting mint directly in open beds – Planting mint in unrestricted garden beds is almost guaranteed to lead to spread. Unless you want mint everywhere, always contain it from the start.
Composting mint roots – Even after pulling, small root fragments may survive composting and re-establish themselves when used later in the garden. It’s safer to dry or dispose of pulled roots.

By avoiding these mistakes, you’ll save yourself time, effort, and the frustration of repeated regrowth.

When to Call for Help

Jim's NZ team

Persistent mint infestations can be overwhelming, especially when roots spread deep into vegetable patches or lawns. If DIY methods aren’t working, professional garden maintenance can help restore order. The team at Jim’s Mowing NZ has experience managing invasive plants while protecting the rest of your garden.

Conclusion

If you’re asking yourself, “how to get rid of mint in garden without killing other plants,” the solution lies in careful root removal, containment, and persistence. By managing mint properly, you’ll protect your garden’s health. For expert gardening services across New Zealand, call Jim’s Mowing NZ at 0800 454 654.

How to Deter Cats from My Garden Without Harming Them

September 23, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

Many Kiwi gardeners love their gardens but struggle with neighbourhood cats digging, scratching, or using garden beds as litter boxes. If you’re wondering how to deter cats from my garden safely, there are humane methods that work without causing harm to pets, wildlife, or the plants you’ve nurtured.

In This Blog You’ll Learn:

Why cats are attracted to your garden
Natural scents and plants that deter cats
Safe physical barriers to protect your soil and beds
Motion-based deterrents that work without harm
Myths and unsafe methods to avoid
How to combine strategies for long-term success

Why Cats Visit Gardens

Before solving the problem, it helps to understand why cats are drawn to your garden in the first place.

Soft soil – Freshly dug beds resemble a natural litter tray.
Hunting opportunities – Birds, insects, and small creatures attract curious felines.
Scent marking – Cats mark territory through scratching or urinating.
Warm sunny spots – Gardens offer perfect places for a daytime nap.

Once you know what attracts them, you can apply strategies to make your garden less appealing.

Natural and Humane Ways to Deter Cats

1. Use Strong Scents

Cats dislike certain smells, making scent deterrents a safe option. Try:

Citrus peels (orange, lemon, lime) scattered around beds.
Coffee grounds mixed into soil.
Herbs like rosemary, lavender, or rue planted strategically.

These natural aromas are non-toxic but signal to cats that your garden isn’t a friendly zone.

2. Create Physical Barriers

Cats prefer soft, loose soil for digging. You can disrupt that preference by:

Covering beds with mulch, pinecones, or bark chips.
Using chicken wire, mesh, or lattice placed just under the soil surface.
Installing plant cloches or netting to protect specific areas.

These barriers make it uncomfortable for cats without harming them.

3. Motion-Based Deterrents

Cats dislike surprises. Devices such as motion-activated sprinklers or ultrasonic repellents can be effective. The sudden spray of water or sound discourages cats from returning while being harmless.

4. Plant Cat-Repelling Plants

Some plants naturally repel cats because of their scent or texture. Options include:

Coleus canina (commonly called “scaredy cat plant”)
Pennyroyal
Lavender
Curry plant

Planted around garden borders, these create a protective perimeter.

5. Redirect Their Attention

If the cats are your own or frequent visitors, creating an alternative space can help. Plant catnip or provide a small sandpit in a far corner of your property to redirect their behaviour away from your main garden beds.

Myths About Deterring Cats

Some tips circulate that are unsafe or ineffective. Avoid:

Using mothballs or harsh chemicals – These are toxic to cats and harmful to soil.
Sharp objects like glass – Dangerous to both pets and people.
Pepper or chilli flakes – Can irritate cats’ eyes and cause unnecessary suffering.

Humane deterrence is always best for neighbourhood harmony and animal welfare.

Combining Strategies for Success

No single method works for every garden. The most effective approach is layering strategies—such as pairing scent deterrents with soil barriers or combining motion devices with cat-repelling plants. Over time, cats learn to avoid your garden altogether.

Professional Help for Garden Care

professional lawn mowing service

Managing garden challenges like pests, weeds, or even unwanted feline visitors takes time and patience. If you’d like expert help maintaining your garden’s health and beauty, the team at Jim’s Mowing NZ offers reliable gardening services tailored to Kiwi homes.

Conclusion

If you’ve been asking yourself, “how to deter cats from my garden without harming them,” the answer lies in humane, natural strategies. With scents, barriers, and smart planting, you can protect your space while keeping animals safe. For expert garden care, call Jim’s Mowing NZ at 0800 454 654.

How to Grow and Maintain Kikuyu Grass

March 24, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

When it comes to creating a lush, durable, and low-maintenance lawn, Kikuyu grass is a top choice for many New Zealand homeowners. Known for its rapid growth and ability to withstand heavy foot traffic, Kikuyu grass is perfect for families, pets, and outdoor enthusiasts.

Whether you’re starting a new lawn or looking to improve your existing one, this Jim’s Mowing NZ guide will walk you through everything you need to know about growing and maintaining Kikuyu grass.

What is Kikuyu Grass?

Kikuyu grass (Pennisetum clandestinum) is a warm-season grass native to East Africa. It was introduced to New Zealand and Australia in the early 20th century and has since become a popular choice for lawns, sports fields, and public spaces. This grass is known for its:

Rapid Growth – Kikuyu grass spreads quickly through both above-ground runners (stolons) and below-ground stems (rhizomes), making it ideal for filling in bare patches.
Durability – It can withstand heavy foot traffic, making it perfect for active households and high-use areas.
Drought Tolerance – Once established, Kikuyu grass has excellent drought resistance, thanks to its deep root system.
Vibrant Green Colour – When well-maintained, Kikuyu grass boasts a lush, green appearance that enhances the beauty of any outdoor space.

What Makes it a Great Grass for Your Lawn

Kikuyu grass offers several benefits that make it a standout choice for New Zealand lawns:

Hard-Wearing

Its ability to recover quickly from damage makes it ideal for families with children and pets.

Low Maintenance

Compared to other grass types, Kikuyu requires less watering and fertilising once established.

Weed Suppression

Its dense growth habit helps prevent weeds from taking over your lawn.

Cost-Effective

Kikuyu grass is relatively inexpensive to establish and maintain, making it a budget-friendly option.

Adaptability

It thrives in a variety of soil types and can tolerate both sun and partial shade.

How to Plant a Kikuyu Lawn

Planting a Kikuyu lawn is straightforward, but it requires careful preparation to ensure success. Follow these steps to create a thriving Kikuyu lawn:

Step 1: Choose the Right Time

The best time to plant Kikuyu grass is during the warmer months (spring or early summer) when the soil temperature is consistently above 15°C. This allows the grass to establish quickly.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Clear the Area – Remove any existing grass, weeds, rocks, or debris from the area.
Loosen the Soil – Use a rotary hoe or garden fork to loosen the soil to a depth of at least 10-15 cm. This promotes root growth and drainage.
Level the Ground – Rake the soil to create a smooth, even surface. Fill in any low spots to prevent water pooling.

Step 3: Sow the Seeds or Lay Turf

Seeding – Spread Kikuyu grass seeds evenly across the prepared soil. Use a seed spreader for even coverage, and lightly rake the seeds into the soil.
Turfing – If using Kikuyu turf, lay the rolls tightly together, staggering the joints like bricks. Water thoroughly after laying.

Step 4: Water Regularly

Keep the soil consistently moist (but not waterlogged) until the grass establishes. This usually takes 2-3 weeks for seeds and 1-2 weeks for turf.
Water deeply once or twice a week, depending on weather conditions.

Step 5: Fertilise

Apply a slow-release fertiliser after the grass has established to encourage healthy growth and root development.

Maintaining a Kikuyu Lawn

Once your Kikuyu lawn is established, regular maintenance will keep it looking lush and healthy. Here’s how to care for your Kikuyu grass:

Mowing

Mow your Kikuyu lawn regularly to keep it at a height of 2-4 cm. Avoid cutting it too short, as this can stress the grass and encourage weed growth.

Use a sharp mower blade to ensure clean cuts and prevent damage to the grass.

Watering

While Kikuyu grass is drought-tolerant, it still needs regular watering during dry spells. Water deeply once a week to encourage deep root growth.

Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to fungal diseases.

Fertilising

Apply a balanced fertiliser (e.g., NPK 10:10:10) every 6-8 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer).

Avoid over-fertilising, as this can lead to excessive growth and thatch buildup.

Weed Control

Hand-pull weeds as soon as they appear, or use a selective herbicide designed for Kikuyu grass.

Maintain a dense lawn to prevent weeds from taking hold.

Aeration

Aerate your lawn once or twice a year to improve soil drainage and reduce compaction. This allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the roots more effectively.

Dethatching
Remove excess thatch (a layer of dead grass and roots) using a dethatching rake or machine. This prevents water and nutrient blockage.

If maintaining your Kikuyu lawn feels overwhelming, Jim’s Mowing NZ offers professional lawn care and mowing services to keep your lawn in top condition. Our team can handle everything from mowing and fertilising to weed control and aeration, so you can enjoy a beautiful lawn without the hassle.

In Summary

Kikuyu grass is an excellent choice for New Zealand lawns, offering durability, low maintenance, and a vibrant green appearance. By following the steps outlined in this guide, you can successfully plant and maintain a Kikuyu lawn that enhances your outdoor space. Regular mowing, watering, fertilising, and weed control are key to keeping your lawn healthy and thriving.

If you need expert help with your lawn care, Jim’s Mowing NZ is here to assist. Our professional services ensure your Kikuyu lawn stays in perfect condition year-round. Call us today on 0800 454 654 to schedule a consultation and take the first step towards a lush, beautiful lawn.

What are the Common Garden Pests Every Beginner Should Know?

January 23, 2025/in Uncategorised/by Jomari Romano

TL:DR

Dealing with common garden pests is one of the biggest challenges for beginner gardeners, as these unwelcome visitors can damage plants, ruin hard work, and spread disease. Understanding how to identify pests like aphids, slugs, and grass grubs, along with applying simple control methods like using natural predators or neem oil, is key to effective garden maintenance and protecting your lawn and plants.

In this blog you’ll learn:

Why Garden Pests Are a Problem
Common Garden Pests in New Zealand
Garden Pest Control Tips for Beginners

Gardening is a rewarding hobby, but it’s not without its challenges. One of the biggest hurdles for beginner gardeners in New Zealand is dealing with common garden pests. These unwelcome visitors can damage your plants, ruin your hard work, and make gardening feel like an uphill battle.

Understanding how to identify, manage, and prevent these pests is key to great garden maintenance.

Why Garden Pests Are a Problem

Garden pests come in all shapes and sizes, from insects and beetles to larvae and mites. These pests can:

Damage plants by feeding on leaves, stems, roots, and flowers.
Spread diseases that weaken or kill plants.
Harm lawn health by targeting grass and soil.

As a beginner gardener, knowing the types of lawn pests and garden pests you’re likely to encounter is the first step toward effective pest control.

Common Garden Pests in New Zealand

1. Aphids

Aphids are small, sap-sucking insects that can cause serious damage to plants by weakening their growth and spreading plant diseases.

Characteristics: Tiny pear-shaped bodies, often green, black, or white.

Damage: Curling or yellowing leaves, sticky residue (honeydew), and stunted growth.

Control Tips:

Use natural predators like ladybugs.
Spray plants with a mixture of water and mild soap.
Apply neem oil or other garden pest control products.

2. Whiteflies

Whiteflies are tiny, winged insects that thrive on the underside of leaves. They are notorious for causing damage to vegetable gardens and ornamental plants.

Characteristics: Small, white, moth-like insects.

Damage: Yellowing leaves, sticky honeydew, and plant diseases.

Control Tips:

Use sticky traps to catch adult whiteflies.
Wash plants with a strong stream of water to dislodge them.
Introduce beneficial insects like lacewings.

3. Slugs and Snails

Slugs and snails are among the most common garden pests in New Zealand. They feed on young plants and can destroy seedlings overnight.

Characteristics: Soft, slimy bodies; slugs lack shells, while snails have spiral shells.

Damage: Large, irregular holes in leaves and trails of slime.

Control Tips:

Remove them by hand at night.
Use beer traps or sprinkle crushed eggshells around plants.
Apply organic slug pellets.

4. Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the larvae of moths and butterflies, and while they eventually transform into beautiful creatures, their feeding habits can wreak havoc on your garden.

Characteristics: Worm-like larvae with varying colors and patterns.

Damage: Holes in leaves, chewed stems, and defoliated plants.

Control Tips:

Pick them off plants manually.
Encourage birds to visit your garden by adding feeders or birdbaths.
Use natural insecticides like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).

5. Garden Beetles

Various types of garden pests beetles are found in New Zealand, including the bronze beetle and grass grub beetle. These pests can damage lawns and plants alike.

Characteristics: Small, shiny beetles with hard shells.

Damage: Chewed leaves, flowers, and roots.

Control Tips:

Apply insecticides specifically formulated for beetles.
Use nematodes to control beetle larvae in the soil.
Maintain healthy soil to deter beetles.

6. Mealybugs

Mealybugs are small, white, cotton-like pests that suck sap from plants, leading to weakened growth and sooty mold.

Characteristics: White, powdery insects that cluster on plant stems and leaves.

Damage: Stunted growth and sticky honeydew.

Control Tips:

Spray plants with rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap.
Introduce predatory insects like ladybugs.
Prune infested areas and dispose of them properly.

7. Thrips

Thrips are tiny, fast-moving insects that feed on plant sap, causing discoloration and distorted growth.

Characteristics: Small, slender insects, usually black, brown, or yellow.

Damage: Silvery streaks or spots on leaves and flowers.

Control Tips:

Use blue or yellow sticky traps.
Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Keep weeds under control to reduce thrips’ breeding grounds.

8. Scale Insects

Scale insects attach themselves to plants and feed on sap, causing yellowing leaves and reduced vigor.

Characteristics: Hard or soft, dome-shaped shells in various colors.

Damage: Yellow or dropping leaves and sticky honeydew.

Control Tips:

Remove them manually with a soft brush or cloth.
Use horticultural oils to suffocate them.
Introduce beneficial insects like parasitic wasps.

9. Grass Grubs

Grass grubs are one of the most damaging types of lawn pests in New Zealand. These beetle larvae feed on grass roots, causing dead patches in lawns.

Characteristics: C-shaped white grubs with brown heads.

Damage: Brown, dying patches of grass and poor lawn health.

Control Tips:

Apply lawn-specific pest control products.
Use nematodes to target grubs.
Keep your lawn healthy with regular lawn care and maintenance.

10. Spider Mites

Spider mites are tiny, spider-like pests that thrive in hot, dry conditions. They feed on plant sap and can quickly infest your garden.

Characteristics: Red, brown, or yellowish mites often found on the underside of leaves.

Damage: Yellowing leaves, fine webbing, and leaf drop.

Control Tips:

Spray plants with water to knock off mites.
Use neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Keep plants well-watered and healthy.

Garden Pest Control Tips for Beginners

Dealing with garden pests can feel overwhelming, but with the right approach, you can keep them under control:

1. Keep Your Garden Healthy

Healthy plants are more resistant to pests. Regular watering, fertilizing, and pruning go a long way in preventing infestations.

2. Use Garden Pest Control Products Wisely

Choose products specifically designed for the garden pests you’re dealing with. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid harming beneficial insects.

3. Encourage Natural Predators

Birds, ladybugs, and lacewings are excellent at keeping common garden insect pests in check. Create a welcoming environment for these helpful creatures.

4. Practice Crop Rotation

If you have a vegetable garden, rotate your crops each year to disrupt pest life cycles.

5. Hire Professional Gardening Services

For persistent pest problems, consider hiring gardening services. Professionals have the expertise and tools to tackle even the toughest infestations.

Final Thoughts

Garden pests are an inevitable part of gardening, but with the right knowledge and tools, you can keep them under control. By identifying the most common garden pests in New Zealand and taking proactive steps to manage them, you can enjoy a thriving, beautiful garden all year round.

If you’re struggling to manage pests or need help with garden maintenance, Jim’s Mowing NZ is here to help. Our expert gardening services include pest control, lawn care, and more. Call us today at 0800 454 654 to keep your garden pest-free and flourishing!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the first step a beginner gardener should take to control pests?

The first step is knowing how to identify the types of pests you are dealing with, as different pests—from sap-sucking insects like aphids to root-feeding larvae like grass grubs—require different control methods.

What are the primary signs that a garden plant has an aphid infestation?

Signs of an aphid infestation include curling or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and a sticky residue on the plants called honeydew, which they excrete after sucking plant sap.

Which pest is known to destroy seedlings overnight and leaves slimy trails?

Slugs and snails are among the most common garden pests that feed on young plants and leave behind large, irregular holes in leaves along with characteristic shiny, slimy trails.

What is a natural and effective way to deal with caterpillars in the garden?

A natural way to control caterpillars is to pick them off plants manually or encourage natural predators like birds to visit the garden by providing feeders or birdbaths.